Refinishing

With the current strain on the economy and the housing market , it is becoming more and more common to “make do with what we have” which means instead of remodeling we are restoring.

The question lies here, is it cost effective? Is it going to last? What is the maintenance involved? Why are you going to charge me $450 to re-glaze my tub when I can buy a new one for $200? These are all quality questions which deserve quality answers.

Let’s start with cost. First of all, the average cost of a tub install is anywhere between $1,400 and $2,500 and that does not factor in the tub surround. When your old tub is removed the tile at the base of the tub must be demolished. It is possible that a “good” installer can demo in such a way that you only have to repair the first row or two of tile. The reality is if it is older than 10 years finding a match for the tile will probably be impossible and will lead to a complete re-tile. Now, you are looking at about $4,000 to $8,000 just to replace the tub and is this cost effective for you? Be prepared from the moment you decide to dress up that tub to make this decision.

Now, a good re-glaze can last better than 10 years if done properly and there is a process which will ensure this. Preparation, product and technique are the key to a long lasting finish. If this technique is not followed your re-glaze will last anywhere from 1 day to 2 years. Two years may sound like a lot but when another company has to go in and strip the old finish off add another $500 to the re-glaze for a total of $950 to have it re-glazed again. This is not cost effective. If you’re going to do it, do it right the first time and you will pat yourself on the back 5 years later when your tub still has a shine and is not peeling. Now let’s get down to process.

The re-glazing process can be six to seven steps.

Removal of any caulking materials. Silicone is a contaminant and will cause the finish to fish eye. It is important to remove all traces of this by means of a silicone digester

Next, the old porcelain needs to be etched by means of an acid paste. This process will prepare the surface for the primer

When the acid etch is complete the surface must be wiped down with a solvent de-greaser to ensure that there are no more contaminants left behind

Primer – The surface must be primed with an epoxy primer to ensure proper cross hatching of compounds (i.e.-porcelain to primer, primer to finish, finish to clear coat)

Finish – The surface is then sprayed with an acrylic-urethane resin which can be tinted to any color you desire. It comes in two types, 24hr cure and 72hr cure. The 72hr cure is best if you don’t mind waiting the extra time but the 24hr cure is good too.

Clear coat – The surface is then sprayed with an acrylic urethane clear coat which will kick up the gloss a bit and provide protection from common household chemicals

If you are refinishing from a previous re-glaze, the finish must be stripped. If this is the case, add this step before the first.

When these steps are followed, you can be sure your re-glaze is going to last for years. A good refinisher will give you at least a 10 year warranty “in writing”, now that is cost effective! You will be happy and have just saved at least 70% of the cost of replacement.

MAINTENANCE

With the process you have just done, maintenance will be a breeze. You may also use rubber mats which many re-glazers will not recommend simply because they know it will peel. You will be able to use soft scrub and a white 3M cleaning pad without harming the surface. You will also be able to safely dye your hair without the fear of staining your finish providing the clear coat was used. With this in mind, re-glazing is not only practical but a very cost effective solution to replacement.

Your project when complete will look as though it was installed yesterday saving you $1000s on an install.

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For a unique look, many homeowners are mixing distressed furniture with current modern styles.

Before you go throwing away your old dining room or bedroom sets, reconsider by refinishing it. Distressed furniture can be very expensive to buy so why not create it yourself with a little imagination and some TLC. This step by step guide will give you some helpful tips that the pros use when distressing furniture.

1. Sand: Sand down the finish on your piece so the primer/paint has something to adhere to. Use medium/fine grit sandpaper for this.

2. Rough up surface: Take a few tools (hammer, screw driver, chain, etc.) and rough up the surface of the piece. This is left up to your discretion of how distressed you want to make the furniture. The more you rough up the surface the more aged the piece appears.

3.Prime: Use a good quality white primer and give the piece of furniture a thin coat. After the piece has dried, follow up with a light sanding.

4. Top coat: Pick a top coat that complements the room. If you want to stay neutral, then go with whites/off whites. Apply two even coats of this top coat. Sometimes, homeowners will request a crackle finish in which the top coat appears as if the paint has dried and is starting to chip away. For a crackle finish read the steps below:

a. Follow steps 1-3.

b. Optional Base coat: Get Creative!! If you do not want the piece to show white crackle from primer coat, then now is the time to be creative. You can apply a different base coat which will show behind the top coat when the crackle takes effect.

c. Apply crackle glaze where you want the top coat to crackle. Allow to dry according to directions on package. This is usually a clear glaze sold at your local home center.

d. Top Coat: Apply top coat evenly (try not to over brush which may cause paint to drag). This top coat should be a different shade then the primer/base coat to make the crackle stand out.

e. Continue the follow steps below.

5. Optional Glaze coat: After the piece has thoroughly dried, apply a glaze over the entire piece. This step is optional but recommended. This glaze (usually dark brown/grey) when applied, highlights all of the roughed up areas (step 2) and really brings out the details in the piece. The best way to apply the glaze, is with a brush and then wipe off the excess with a rag. Wipe with even pressure (in one direction).

6. Apply a seal coat: Water based Poly works good for this. Apply 2-3 thin coats of this product according to the manufacturer’s recommendation and do not forget to sand in between coats. This step will protect all of your hard work.

Now step back and enjoy your newly antiqued furniture. You will be amazed at the results and how quick and easy you have changed the look of your room. Take your time & most importantly be creative with this!!

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